Floor Jacks

Think of a floor jack as a sturdy hydraulic pump on wheels – a device that lifts your car so you can work underneath it. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a simple tool designed to help lift the vehicle you’re working on. Mechanics and DIYers use them all the time for tyre changes, oil changes, brake work and other under-car jobs. In fact, floor jacks are indispensable for things like “tire rotations, brake jobs, oil changes” and other routine maintenance. If you do any serious car or van work at home, a floor jack saves hours of effort – it does the heavy lifting (literally) so you don’t have to.

How Does a Floor Jack Work?

Under the hood, a floor jack is basically a hydraulic pump on wheels. You slip it under the car at the correct lift point, then pump its long handle. Each stroke forces hydraulic fluid into a cylinder, raising a piston and lifting the arm under the car. Thanks to Pascal’s law, a small push on the lever translates into a huge lifting force. In practice this means you can lift a few hundred kilos with one hand – no Herculean effort required.

Most floor jacks have two pistons or extra cams built in (sometimes called a “dual pump” or “quick-lift” system) so the jack flies up quickly with minimal pumping. These dual-pump jacks can raise the car to height in roughly half the number of lever strokes. When you’re done, a screw-release (or lever) lets the oil flow back and the car gently lowers. It’s essentially a long lever working a hydraulic cylinder – pump up to raise, open the valve slowly to lower.

Types of Floor Jacks: Which Is Right for You?

Floor jacks come in several varieties to suit different cars and users. The first big distinction is capacity: common sizes are roughly 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 tonnes. A tiny 1.5t jack will handle a small hatchback or city car just fine, while larger cars, SUVs and light vans often need a 3t model. In fact, most motorists find their match in the 1.5–3t range (anything beyond that is more for heavy commercial vehicles).

Next, consider build material. Many jacks use heavy steel, which is rock-solid but quite hefty. Some are made of aluminium or an aluminium-steel hybrid – these hit the same lift ratings but weigh a lot less, making them easier to manoeuvre.

You’ll also see two profiles. A standard jack sits taller at rest; a low-profile jack starts only a few centimetres off the ground so you can roll it under lowered cars or racing cars. If your car’s underside is tight to the ground, a low-profile jack (tailor-made for “low vehicles where clearance is limited”) can be a lifesaver.

Finally, look at pumping speed. Standard jacks might need 8–12 pumps to get the car up, but rapid-lift or dual-pump models shorten that to just a few strokes for the first part of the lift. In short: pick capacity first (match your car’s weight), then choose steel vs alloy and standard vs low-profile based on how often you use it and how low your car sits.

What Should You Consider When Choosing a Floor Jack?

First and foremost, match the jack’s rating to your vehicle. A good rule of thumb is to pick a jack that can lift more than your car’s weight. Many pros recommend a 3-tonne jack for most passenger cars to be safe. For a compact car, 1.5–2t might suffice, but if you drive a big SUV or van, step up to 3t or higher. Never push a jack past its limit – exceeding capacity is dangerous and can cause failure.

Measure your car’s ground clearance and suspension travel. A typical floor jack needs around 6″ (15cm) of clearance to start lifting. If your car sits lower, buy a low-profile jack that can fit under just 2–5″. Also, ensure the jack’s max height is above your car’s highest jack point. If you jack a car up by the wheel hub, you need enough height to raise the tyre fully off the ground and then some. The jack must be low enough to fit under your car and lift higher than the chassis, otherwise you might not free the tyre even after pumping.

Look at materials. Steel jacks are heavy but extremely tough. Aluminium ones are lighter (easier to wheel around or use at track days) but often more expensive. Both can be equally rated for weight – it’s a trade-off between portability and brute durability. Also check for safety features like an overload valve (which prevents accidental over-pumping).

Some jacks offer features like quick-lift (fewer pumps to reach lift height) or dual-stage pistons. If you’re often pumping a lot, these can save time. Good wheel casters and a comfy handle length will make life easier too.

Finally, set a realistic budget. You’ll typically spend anywhere from ~£100 for a basic 2t jack up to a few hundred for a high-end 3t model. Trusted brands in the UK include Sealey, Draper and Arcan (all of which get consistently good marks). Budget lines like Hilka and Silverline make decent 1.5–2t jacks for occasional use. Regardless of brand, ensure the jack is CE (or UKCA) certified for safety.

In summary: match capacity to your car, check clearances (go low-profile if needed), and pick a build that fits your budget and usage. And remember, no floor jack should be your only defence – always use it in combination with proper support.

How to Use a Floor Jack Safely

1. Park on a hard, level surface (never gravel, dirt or a slope) and apply the handbrake. As experts warn, always chock the wheels that stay on the ground to prevent rollaway.
2. Consult your car’s handbook to locate the designated lifting point (usually on the chassis or pinch weld). Never stick the jack under a mudguard or body panel – that can dent or bend things.
3. Slip the floor jack under that point. Make sure the rubber pad (or flat saddle) is centred on the jack point. Give the handle release valve a tight clockwise turn so it’s closed (this locks the hydraulics).
4. Pump the handle steadily. The car will rise smoothly. Keep watching that the jack stays upright and centred; if the car shifts, lower it and reposition. One pro tip: pump slowly and feel for stability – if anything feels funny, stop and check.
5. Once you have enough lift (for example the wheel is off the ground), place sturdy jack stands under the car at the correct support points. These stands will actually hold the car’s weight. With stands in place, slowly lower the jack so the car settles onto the stands.
6. At this stage, always work under the stands – never trust the jack by itself to hold up the car. So, your car should be resting solidly on stands before you slide under.
7. When the job’s done, raise the jack slightly, remove the stands, then carefully open the release valve to lower the car back down onto all four wheels. Double-check that every nut or bolt you’ve worked on is tight.

Follow all steps deliberately – rushing or skipping steps is a recipe for trouble. By the end of it, you’ll be snugly under the car with it safely supported by stands, as it should be.

What Are the Most Common Mistakes When Using Floor Jacks?

Even the most experienced folks can trip up when using a floor jack, and there are a handful of classic mistakes you’ll definitely want to avoid. One of the big ones is trying to jack up your car on uneven ground – think a sloping driveway, gravel, or anything that isn’t firm and flat. Do that, and you risk the jack tipping or sliding out from under the car, which is every mechanic’s nightmare. Always take a few seconds to make sure you’re working on solid, level ground.

Overloading the jack is another common pitfall. It’s tempting to assume that “close enough” is good enough, but if your jack is rated for two tonnes and your car weighs two and a half, you’re running a real risk. Always check your car’s weight and go for a jack with a bit of extra capacity – never cut it fine. It’s just not worth the gamble.

Another mistake people make – often because they’re in a hurry – is relying on the jack alone to support the vehicle. This can’t be said enough: never, ever crawl under a car that’s only held up by a jack. As soon as you’ve lifted the car, slip a pair of properly rated axle stands under it before you do anything else. The stands are what’ll keep you safe, not the jack.

You’ll also want to be careful about where you place the jack. Position it under a fragile spot, like an oil pan or a bit of thin metal, and you might end up doing serious damage to the car’s frame – or worse, have the jack slip out. Always check your car’s manual for the correct lifting points, and stick to those.

It’s surprisingly easy to forget to chock the wheels that are staying on the ground, especially if you’re in a rush. But skipping the chocks or pumping the jack too quickly is a recipe for disaster. Take your time, do it right, and never rush the process. Don’t ever try to jack up a car on an incline, and never ignore the manufacturer’s recommended jacking points.

Finally, don’t leave a car perched on a jack longer than absolutely necessary. If you need to step away or pause, always lower the car onto stands first – jacks can lose pressure or slip without warning. And whatever you do, don’t try to use bricks, bits of wood, or any improvised supports in place of the proper kit.

Stick to level ground, use the right jack and stands, chock your wheels, and always lift from the correct spots. Do all that, and you’ll keep both yourself and your car out of trouble.

How to Maintain and Store Your Floor Jack for a Longer Life

1. Clean and inspect your jack after each use or at least once a month. Wipe it down and check for any issues, such as hydraulic fluid leaks, bent parts, or rust. It’s a good habit to look over the ram and seals regularly for any signs of wear and keep everything free from dirt and corrosion.
2. Lubricate moving parts by adding a few drops of oil or a quick spray of lubricant on the pump pivot and wheels now and then. This keeps everything running smoothly and helps prevent dust from clogging up the release valve or the casters.
3. Top up the hydraulic oil if the jack feels spongy or if the oil is running low. Always use the correct hydraulic oil recommended by the manufacturer. Avoid using engine or brake fluid, as these can ruin the seals. If the jack starts acting up, check your manual for the proper way to bleed air from the system.
4. Store the jack in its fully lowered position every time you put it away. This relieves pressure on the ram and helps keep contaminants out. Always stash it in a dry garage spot, not outside in the elements, so you don’t have to worry about rust.
5. Service your jack as needed. If you notice serious leaks or if it stops pumping properly, don’t force it to work. If you’re handy, rebuild kits and replacement seals are available, but otherwise, it’s best to get a professional to check things over. Keeping up with simple maintenance will keep your jack safe and reliable for all your car jobs.

If you keep your jack clean, lubricated, and properly stored, you’ll save yourself a lot of hassle (and expense) down the line.

FAQs: Your Questions About Floor Jacks Answered

How do I know what lifting capacity I need?

It’s pretty simple, really: you want a jack that can handle more than your car actually weighs. Don’t try to cut it fine! For most family motors – a saloon or a hatchback – you’re generally safe with a 2 to 2.5 tonne jack, but if you’d rather err on the side of caution, a 3-tonner will give you that extra peace of mind. Basically, if you’ve got something bigger than your average runabout, step up to a beefier jack. Always better to be safe than sorry, especially when your pride and joy’s in the air.

Can I just use the floor jack on its own and skip the axle stands?

Absolutely not. The jack is there for lifting only – it’s not meant to hold your car up while you’re underneath it. Think of axle stands as your safety net. As much as we’d all like to cut corners now and then, this really isn’t the time. Always get the car onto proper stands before you even think about getting your head under there. Honestly, it’s not worth risking it – nobody wants to be that cautionary tale down the pub.

Should I get a bottle jack or a floor jack?

That one comes down to what you’re planning to do. Bottle jacks are cracking little things if you need something compact and powerful to keep in the boot – brilliant in a pinch. But, truth be told, they’re not as steady as a proper floor (or trolley) jack, especially if you’re on a less-than-perfect surface. Floor jacks roll into place and sit nice and flat, which makes them spot on for the home garage. Most of us stick with the trolley jack for day-to-day jobs, just for the sheer ease and peace of mind.

I’ve got a lowered sports car. Am I going to need a special jack?

Chances are, yes. Standard jacks often struggle to fit under cars that hug the ground. If your pride and joy barely clears a speed bump, you’ll want a low-profile jack – these are designed to slide under cars with very little clearance, sometimes as little as two centimetres. If you try to squeeze a normal jack under there, you might not even get started, let alone get the wheels off the ground.

Are aluminium jacks any good, or should I stick to steel?

Both have their place, to be honest. Aluminium jacks are just as strong as steel ones for most uses, and they’re a doddle to carry about, especially if you’re lugging them round the paddock or working mobile. Steel jacks, on the other hand, tend to be a bit more wallet-friendly and can take a real beating. So it’s really down to what you value more – lightweight convenience or good old-fashioned strength. Either way, you’ll be sorted as long as you pick one with a decent rating.